Utility Survey Corp. uses GPR to locate wire mesh, rebar, post-tension cables and embedded utilities within concrete slabs. This is an invaluable process on any projects requiring saw cutting or core drilling through concrete slabs.
Wire The Drill Rar
Right now, you probably have a cable wire running from the telephone poles on your street to your house. It might come in the attic and then, thanks to some drilling done by the cable guy, snakes its way from room to room connecting to cable boxes. Those cables also need to connect to a modem and/or router to provide wireless internet to your house. That means even if you "cut the cord" and ditch cable, you still need the same coaxial cable line for internet at home.
Verizon said Tuesday that instead of giving you a bunch of cable boxes and other gadgets, it's going to simply give you an Apple TV 4K and a wireless modem. Since Verizon isn't going to run a standard cable line to your house, it's also going to include a subscription to YouTube TV, YouTube's streaming service that will provide access to TV channels. YouTube TV normally costs $40 per month, but Verizon's deal is likely only a limited-time offer.
You'll still have a modem at home, but it'll connect to Verizon's wireless 5G signal and then serve as a home Wi-Fi router, complete with standard Ethernet ports. This is how devices like the Apple TV 4K, your smartphone, computer and other internet gadgets will connect to Verizon's 5G wireless network. PCMag had a look at one of the routers Verizon said it was initially considering in 2017.
This means you won't need to run a cable throughout your home to each TV, since you won't be using cable boxes to get your TV content. No more drilling through walls. No more waiting for the cable guy. Just plug in your Verizon modem and get online.
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Some surgeons use a vein from the arm or hand in place of the tissue from above the ear to close the opening created by removal of the stapes. There is a variety of prostheses that can be used, including a stainless steel piston, a wire, or others.
Firework is great for parties, but lighting them can be dangerous. That's why I made a wireless igniter, with an infrared remote control and an arduino. The project is powered by a NiCd battery (from a cordless drill), and is entirely stored in a small trunk. This makes the project perfect to take with you to parties.
The idea behind the project is very simple: Nichrome (NiCr) wire, a type of resistance wire, gets glowing hot when a high current passes through it. This wire is then used to light the fuse of the fireworks. This current is turned on and off by the Arduino, with the use of a mosfet, and controlled by an infrared remote. I designed this project as an arduino "shield", so the arduino can easily be removed for use in other projects.
The circuit is simply a small piece of NiCr wire (26 AWG) connected to a NiCd battery from a cordless drill, by 10m of wire. The battery of 18V induces a current of about 3A in the wire, because the resistance of the whole wire (20m normal wire + 2cm NiCr wire) is about 6 Ohm. With a current of 3A, the wire glows and gets hot enough to light the fuse of the firework; but not too much to destroy the NiCr wire itself. That means it can easily be reused!If you want to use shorter wires, which is perfectly possible, you should take a thicker NiCr wire, so it doesn't melt. I added a table i found online; you should take a look in the column of 500 degrees Celsius. Another option is lowering the voltage (other battery, or using a buck converter).
Now on to the fun part: making it wireless! Basically, all I did was add a switch, but in the form of a mosfet. This works as follows: the positive side of the battery gets connected to one side of the wire, then the other side gets connected to the Drain of the mosfet. The Source is then connected to the negative side of the battery. The last terminal of the mosfet, the gate, gets connected to a pin of the arduino. The mosfet will conduct electricity between its source and drain when the gate is set to high (+5V), and close when it is set to low (0V).
As you may well know, the arduino has not enough pins to control 20 of those mosfets. That's why I used a pin expander / IO expander. This chip is connected to the arduino with 2 wires (pin SCL & SDA) and gives 16 extra inputs or outputs. As always with IC's: take a look at the data sheet (or just my schematic). This chip needs a 33nF capacitor between pin 9 and ground, and a resistor between pin 9 and 5V; this is for the clock speed. With 16 IO's on the expander, only 4 pins of the arduino are needed to drive the mosfets: pins 8 to 11.
Next, we'll add the IR receiver (again: check the data sheet). One pin is connected to 5V, one to ground, and the last one is connected to pin 13 of the arduino. This will give us an input, that will be processed by a library in the next step. Pin 12 will connect to a small LED (with 220R resistor) and to ground. This will blink when it gets an input from the IR remote. I soldered everything to an extension wire, so the receiver can be mounted outside the case. Moreover, I soldered the ground of the IR receiver and LED together to save a wire.
Now all that's left are some formalities: a main switch (2 pole) that disconnects the NiCd battery from the circuit and the 9V battery from the arduino, a green LED and resistor (680R) to indicate the power is on. One more safety feature is added: a key switch. This has 2 purposes: it can't be turned on by some joker, and it prevents unwanted ignition. By adding a red LED in the main circuit, it will only light up when current is flowing through the NiCr wire. Because of the 1kR resistor, the current will be very small and won't ignite the fuse. The key switch bypasses the LED and resistor. So, when the LED is burning, one of the mosfets is conducting. Turning the switch will ignite a fuse! So when you aren't pressing a button on the remote, and the LED is burning, it's not safe to turn the switch, because something is not right.
Soldering everything on the breadboard is quite straightforward when following the schematic. I added a few, with different views. Just make sure you connect the right wires to the female headers. You'll notice that there are 20 female headers that are connected to mosfets, and 4 that connect to +18V. This is done to save wires, and is explained below. All the components are on the backside of the board, so keep in mind the IO expander is actually mirrored. Pin 1 is at the bottom left on the circuit.
The 20 wires are bundled in groups of 6 wires: 1 positive and 5 negatives. This was done to save some wire. At the beginning of the wire, I added header pins, for connecting to the perfboard (detachable wires make everything easier). Attach the 6 wires to 2 rows of 3 header pins, so that you get the same configuration as the female headers (make sure the negative wire is in the right spot, otherwise it will not connect to the right female headers on the board!) At the end, the negative wire splices in 5, to form 5 groups of 1 positive and 1 negative wire. The NiCr wire is then fed through a small piece of perfboard and soldered between the 2 ends. This creates a small loop for the fuse to pass through. A crocodile clip is glued under it, to hold the fuse in place.
To add even more outputs, you could use an additional IO expander, on the same 2 wires (!). This is possible because it interacts with the arduino with the I2C protocol. By giving a different address to the other chip (achieved by setting 4 pins to high or low; see datasheet), we can distinguish the 2.
Now we need to make one modification to the trunk itself. The wires need to come out of the trunk, even if it's closed, so I made a cutout on one side. I simply used a dremel to grind some of the aluminium away. The small wire with the IR receiver and LED doesn't need a cutout (this is held on the case with a small magnet).
For the battery, I made an adapter out of LEGO. It fits over the part that normally slides into the drill, and makes the electrical connections. The LEGO part is very easy to make. You just need to add 2 small pieces of metal, that make contact with the terminals on the battery. Next, solder 2 wires to it, and connect them to a barrel jack (center positive). This goes inside the plug on the perfboard. The assembly fits perfectly in the box we made earlier. (Make this piece first and adjust the dimension of the box to its size.)
To operate, simply connect the battery and the wires. For attaching the fireworks, put the fuse through the loop of NiCr wire and hold it with the crocodile clip, like shown in the picture. Turn on the power switch (the green LED should light up) and WAIT. The small blue LED should blink 3 times, which indicates the arduino is running the program. If the red LED is on, something is not working, and the key switch may not be turned (check if the wires are correctly inserted)! If the red LED is off, you can safely turn the key switch on. Attach the IR receiver outside the trunk, and close the lid. Take some distance and press a button on the remote control. The blue LED should blink once, and your firework should light (the range is about 15-20m)! Press the next button and enjoy your work. :)
If the nichrome wire gets too hot with the battery that you are using, use a for loop to turn the digital output pin on and off quickly, instead of constant on. Example:for(int x = 0; x int percentage = 70; // Adjust nichrome wire heating, higher is hotter digitalWrite(igniterPin[i], HIGH); delay(percentage); digitalWrite(igniterPin[i], LOW); delay(100-percentage); 2ff7e9595c
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